I don't really know where to start this one......
In trying to summarise the last 3 days, I've decided I'm not sure how much to share and how much to keep to myself. Maybe there's a compromise? I'll see how it flows..........
I'm in Chulilla, amongst friends and climbers, yet these past few days I've exhausted myself in every way possible and while today is a rest day, I feel utterly worn out. I almost hope it rains tomorrow.
Friday and Saturday I climbed with Ciaran, and the Scottish front joined forces with the French and had a couple of good days climbing. The sun shone on Friday and we climbed ok in fine temperatures and even managed a decent 1st redpoint of a route called Happy End (7c). It surprisingly nice to be able to let you know the route name and not just the number. Ciaran has enjoyed pushing himself and finding that he's way better than he thinks he is.
We've talked at length about stuff and things, and have a similar past in some ways, a past that has undoubtedly made us both who we are today, whether we like it or not. We're also built the same, a proper pair of lightweights! Here's a quick plug for his blog. There's some nice photo's and some interesting honest and frank writing. http://ciro-arrampicata.blogspot.co.uk/
Ciaran, taking a natural rest!
Saturday was chilly and breezy, after yesterdays redpoint and the effort involved, I found it hard to get moving, even after the long walk into Oasis (for me anyway). The first route we did was a 6b+, climbed in 5 layers including my small silver duvet jacket, phone, gloves, car keys and cash still in the pockets. In all honesty, right then, I could have curled up and just given up for the day.... Things elsewhere coupled with the way my body felt and the weather, had left me feeling like doing anything else but climb. I found my best stiff upper lip and carried on, and of course, things got a little better. Ciaran's enthusiasm and my own instinct got us up another 6b+ of epic proportions, including monster almost Kalymnian-standard tufa trunks. Next up, a cheeky 7a+ followed by the excellent Sendorosa Luminosa, as recommended by Dave Marsh (Yes its pretty good Dave but there are many better ones). Ciaran linked both pitches for a 50 metre mammoth expedition to the top of the crag and a cool 7B on sight.
The social side of things here is excellent, but there's a bit of a balancing act to perform. All the things I want to do, the priorities I have, and the hours remaining in the day haven't gelled as yet. The morning routines are very much 'student hours', if you know what I mean. Most folks leave for the crag late morning or lunchtime and return as darkness falls meaning little time to eat, tidy up, re pack and plan for the next day or the rest day. It also means by the time I get to the cafe in the evening its full and busy and difficult to find a private corner, especially when I want to chat a bit, get some beta, and here all the news of the days climbs. And to try and fit in.
My body clock is settling, the morning 'routine' is becoming happily regular, and bar the odd noisy van full of noisy and irresponsible people using the place as their own holiday camp, and the side of my van as a back rest... I wake up about 8 and have a coffee in bed before getting up and making breakfast and getting ready for the day. That's pretty much long before everyone else but that's the way it goes and so be it.
Sunday was hot and sunny, but still I walked up in the thermal top and jeans I've been wearing for the past 2 days. Steve is here, all teeth and beard with that happy chatty face and vibe. The stories flowed and the chat was good. It is good to see him and to have that upbeat character about the place. We headed up to a close crag and did a little climbing (Presicrak was brilliant at an easy though intimidating 6c). Rok joined us and all in all we had a short but good day. Again I struggled at the start to get moving, the heat was an issue early on so we sought the shade.
Steve Shoe. Plus beard!!
I'm finding so far that the body is slower to move into climbing mode than usual, especially on day 2 and 3 after a rest. I am open to different ideas about climb/rest day combinations and I'll vary things to see what suits me best as and when. The diet is good, much better than before and there's so much less rubbish being consumed... The slow creep to better fitness is undoubtedly on-going, from within as well as from the climbing.
There has been some interesting debates about the car park scene, and the refugio lack-of-a-scene. There are some that think its wrong to set up a climbers camp in the car park, stating the human mess we leave behind as the main argument against..... this while they 'go to the toilet' at the crag willy nilly!!! What's worse? Discuss.
For me I'm self contained and self sufficient in as far as all my waste is on board and dumped in a place designed for the purpose. The vans and tents? Well maybe there is a little more to say there and a thoughtful approach to waste needs to be discussed and adopted. Ciaran and I tidied up a broken bag of rubbish left behind by one van, probably by accident but there are varying standards amongst us it appears, those of us in the 'leave no trace' camp and a minority in the 'couldn't give a fuck' department..... It looks to me like it could be divided into nationalities. Nuff said.
Gerd, Nic, Steve and I have chatted about the refugio. Its a bit like Fort Knox and sits on top of the knoll overlooking Chulilla, surrounded by a fence and a locked gate. Not very welcoming. Off-putting in fact. It used to be an informal camping spot in pre refugio days. We think it makes obvious sense to open it up, make it a focal point and let the vans and campers park up there. The refugio could be the centre of things and a really vibrant healthy scene could be encouraged, not to mention the chance for a little money to be made if the charges are not stupid...
Hilltop Refugio
If only they could see these things. We're not here free-loading, we're not here to make a mess (most of us). I and many others spend our money in the cafe, the market and the bar in return for the honour of climbing on wonderful rock, by a pretty little Spanish village, in a beautiful part of the world.
As for the other 'stuff and things' and what to share and what to keep?
I've shared it with those that need to know, and as we go on, we live and learn. Every day's a school day as the saying goes. Some of us learn more slowly than others that's for sure, but I am learning.
Bar El Canton, mid afternoon.
This evening Steve and I had an interesting chat over dinner about the important things in life. About home and place, about love and life, child hood and growing up. More on that when I've had enough vino tinto to lubricate the fingers!
S agapo xx
In trying to summarise the last 3 days, I've decided I'm not sure how much to share and how much to keep to myself. Maybe there's a compromise? I'll see how it flows..........
I'm in Chulilla, amongst friends and climbers, yet these past few days I've exhausted myself in every way possible and while today is a rest day, I feel utterly worn out. I almost hope it rains tomorrow.
Friday and Saturday I climbed with Ciaran, and the Scottish front joined forces with the French and had a couple of good days climbing. The sun shone on Friday and we climbed ok in fine temperatures and even managed a decent 1st redpoint of a route called Happy End (7c). It surprisingly nice to be able to let you know the route name and not just the number. Ciaran has enjoyed pushing himself and finding that he's way better than he thinks he is.
We've talked at length about stuff and things, and have a similar past in some ways, a past that has undoubtedly made us both who we are today, whether we like it or not. We're also built the same, a proper pair of lightweights! Here's a quick plug for his blog. There's some nice photo's and some interesting honest and frank writing. http://ciro-arrampicata.blogspot.co.uk/
Saturday was chilly and breezy, after yesterdays redpoint and the effort involved, I found it hard to get moving, even after the long walk into Oasis (for me anyway). The first route we did was a 6b+, climbed in 5 layers including my small silver duvet jacket, phone, gloves, car keys and cash still in the pockets. In all honesty, right then, I could have curled up and just given up for the day.... Things elsewhere coupled with the way my body felt and the weather, had left me feeling like doing anything else but climb. I found my best stiff upper lip and carried on, and of course, things got a little better. Ciaran's enthusiasm and my own instinct got us up another 6b+ of epic proportions, including monster almost Kalymnian-standard tufa trunks. Next up, a cheeky 7a+ followed by the excellent Sendorosa Luminosa, as recommended by Dave Marsh (Yes its pretty good Dave but there are many better ones). Ciaran linked both pitches for a 50 metre mammoth expedition to the top of the crag and a cool 7B on sight.
The social side of things here is excellent, but there's a bit of a balancing act to perform. All the things I want to do, the priorities I have, and the hours remaining in the day haven't gelled as yet. The morning routines are very much 'student hours', if you know what I mean. Most folks leave for the crag late morning or lunchtime and return as darkness falls meaning little time to eat, tidy up, re pack and plan for the next day or the rest day. It also means by the time I get to the cafe in the evening its full and busy and difficult to find a private corner, especially when I want to chat a bit, get some beta, and here all the news of the days climbs. And to try and fit in.
My body clock is settling, the morning 'routine' is becoming happily regular, and bar the odd noisy van full of noisy and irresponsible people using the place as their own holiday camp, and the side of my van as a back rest... I wake up about 8 and have a coffee in bed before getting up and making breakfast and getting ready for the day. That's pretty much long before everyone else but that's the way it goes and so be it.
Sunday was hot and sunny, but still I walked up in the thermal top and jeans I've been wearing for the past 2 days. Steve is here, all teeth and beard with that happy chatty face and vibe. The stories flowed and the chat was good. It is good to see him and to have that upbeat character about the place. We headed up to a close crag and did a little climbing (Presicrak was brilliant at an easy though intimidating 6c). Rok joined us and all in all we had a short but good day. Again I struggled at the start to get moving, the heat was an issue early on so we sought the shade.
I'm finding so far that the body is slower to move into climbing mode than usual, especially on day 2 and 3 after a rest. I am open to different ideas about climb/rest day combinations and I'll vary things to see what suits me best as and when. The diet is good, much better than before and there's so much less rubbish being consumed... The slow creep to better fitness is undoubtedly on-going, from within as well as from the climbing.
There has been some interesting debates about the car park scene, and the refugio lack-of-a-scene. There are some that think its wrong to set up a climbers camp in the car park, stating the human mess we leave behind as the main argument against..... this while they 'go to the toilet' at the crag willy nilly!!! What's worse? Discuss.
For me I'm self contained and self sufficient in as far as all my waste is on board and dumped in a place designed for the purpose. The vans and tents? Well maybe there is a little more to say there and a thoughtful approach to waste needs to be discussed and adopted. Ciaran and I tidied up a broken bag of rubbish left behind by one van, probably by accident but there are varying standards amongst us it appears, those of us in the 'leave no trace' camp and a minority in the 'couldn't give a fuck' department..... It looks to me like it could be divided into nationalities. Nuff said.
Gerd, Nic, Steve and I have chatted about the refugio. Its a bit like Fort Knox and sits on top of the knoll overlooking Chulilla, surrounded by a fence and a locked gate. Not very welcoming. Off-putting in fact. It used to be an informal camping spot in pre refugio days. We think it makes obvious sense to open it up, make it a focal point and let the vans and campers park up there. The refugio could be the centre of things and a really vibrant healthy scene could be encouraged, not to mention the chance for a little money to be made if the charges are not stupid...
If only they could see these things. We're not here free-loading, we're not here to make a mess (most of us). I and many others spend our money in the cafe, the market and the bar in return for the honour of climbing on wonderful rock, by a pretty little Spanish village, in a beautiful part of the world.
As for the other 'stuff and things' and what to share and what to keep?
I've shared it with those that need to know, and as we go on, we live and learn. Every day's a school day as the saying goes. Some of us learn more slowly than others that's for sure, but I am learning.
This evening Steve and I had an interesting chat over dinner about the important things in life. About home and place, about love and life, child hood and growing up. More on that when I've had enough vino tinto to lubricate the fingers!
S agapo xx
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